By Anote Ajeluorou
Most of the ancient architecture in sub-Sahara Africa
usually made of mud, easily falls prey to the elements and begins to crumble
after a few years. As such there are not many buildings that stand as legacy to
a glorious African past. But the Binis of Edo State, especially the royal and
priestly stock, stand as a contrast to this. The architecture of the ancient
Binis stands as a testament to time, with their sturdy walls that defy the
elements in their monumental but simple grandeur.
So that when
filmmaker, Lancelot Oduwa Imasuen, decided to shoot a film on a proud African
monarch, unarguably the last independent African king, Oba Ovoranmwen Nogbaisi,
who resisted the British incursion into African affairs, titled Invasion 1897, he was raking up history.
When he chose to use Enogie Eki Iyawe’s
palace in Obazagbon in Ikpoba Okha Local Government Area on the outskirts of
Benin City , as setting for the embattled Ovoranmwen, Imasuen was merely
re-enacting the history of a displaced monarch in a palace he probably visited
and which was left untouched by the invading British in their punitive expenditure
of 1897.
At the Enogie of Obazabgon’s palace is this
enduring architecture that stands visible and lonesome in its shinny red mud
earth and low-hanging zinc rooftop in gazebo-like fashion. With modern brick
houses springing up all around, Enogie
Eki Iyawe’s palace is something of a picturesque delight. Slightly modeled
after the sprawling Oba’s palace a
few hundred metres from where it took root, Obazagbon’s palace is like a
magician’s conjuration from the distant past. Within its walls, too, is part of
ancient Benin history traceable to Oba’s royal palace just as it predates Oba
Ovoranmwen Nogbaisi, who was infamously deposed in 1897 by the invading British
imperialists.
It was Oba Osemwende,
who in 1816 revoked the tradition prevalent at the time to execute his younger brother,
Iyawe, who might nurse the idea of plotting to overthrow him. Oba Osemwende was
said to have asked his chiefs if they would have their brothers killed for
being made chiefs. A stalemate ensued. The reigning oba then wisely sent his
younger brother away as Duke or Enogie
to Obazagbon. That was how Enogie
Iyawe built the current palace that will be 200 years old in 2016, and modeled
after the royal palace from where he was sent to preside as Duke over the
affairs of Obazagbon.
Enogie Eki Iyawe is the sixth Enogie
in office in Obazagbon after five of his illustrious forebears had taken their
turns. The first Enogie, Iyawe has
his nephew, Adolo, succeeding his brother, Osemwende, who spared his life and
gave him a dukedom to preside over; and it was from Adolo that Ovoranmwen
succeeded as Oba in 1888, and which
reign was brutally terminated in 1897. After a period 17 years’ interregnum,
Oba Eweka II was allowed to mount the throne by the British in 1914 and reigned
till 1933 when he was succeeded by Oba Akenzua II and from whom the current Omo n’Oba n’Edo Uku Akpolokplo, Oba
Erediauwa I ascended the throne in 1979.
BUT these are not the best of times for Enogie Eki Iyawe and his ancient palace, which was officially
approved a National Monument in 2011. With this significant move by the
National Commission for Monuments and Museums (NCMM), the ancient edifice ought
to be receiving a subvention for its upkeep and further expansion so as to
attract tourists.
Being one of the few
old palaces that the British invaders in 1897 did not raze down, the Enogie’s palace at Obazagbon still
possesses rare and ancient Bini artworks that are hidden from public eye. At
the head of the enclosed courtyard of the palace where the Enogie still holds court is the Enogie’s
shrine partly hidden from view with raffia palm fronds but from which bronze
heads and other great artifacts can still be spied. Enogie Eki Iyawe said those are just a few of the huge stock of
ancient art works his ancestors gathered that are locked inside from public
view. The others, he said, are publicly displayed during Obazagbon festival
once a year.
The young Enogie is worried at government’s
neglect of the 198 years monument his forefathers left in his care. The outside
walls and huge pillars have begun to crack in places close to the foundation
level from wear and tear from the elements, which isn’t good for further
longevity of this National Monument. There’s a need to strengthen and further
protect the walls from the whether. Already Enobie
Iyawe is looking to 2016 when his ancestral homestead would be 200 years
old to really roll out the drums and celebrate.
But before then the Duke
of Obazagbon is making a passionate appeal to the authorities that the status
of National Monument conferred on his palace be made real rather than the mere
paper work it is at the moment. But since government is slow in doing its part,
he intends to transform the monument from its current form to an attractive
place for tourism. He is working hard to build the surrounding landmass,
essentially a forest, into a resort that would give accommodation and other
variety of entertainment to guests.
Already, tourists,
particularly foreign guests that visit the main Benin Museum at King’s Square,
also visit his palace. Enogie Iyawe
hopes that these early converts would form the first set of tourists to taste from
the haven he has conceptualized. The chalets, according to Enogie Iyawe, would dovetail into the natural trees and vegetation
to give it idyllic ambience, with the monkeys and other animals often frolicking
among the trees in their natural habitat. He would also erect a Bush Bar that
would serve local Edo cuisines and local brew to give it a truly African
flavor.
For using his
ancient palace as setting for one of the illustrious Obas of Bini, Oba Ovoranmwen Nogbaisi, titled Invasion 1897, Enogie Iyawe
said Imasuen’s efforts are commendable and a good development. This is moreso
as it dovetails into his plans to expose the tourism potentials of the structure
to the world. It was also precisely why Imasuen chose to shoot his film at Enogie Obazagbon’s palace, a palace the
deposed oba probably visited while he
reigned over the vast kingdom.
Also a Bini man,
it’s Imasuen’s belief that the Edo culture is yet to receive the global acclaim
it rightly deserves. He attributes the low patronage of Edo culture to poor
management of a rich cultural patrimony by government and those saddled with
such responsibility. As the last independent king in sub-Sahara Africa, the
fall of Oba Ovoranmwen was the bridge to present-day Nigeria. Had the Binis
defeated the British, it invariably meant there would have been no Nigeria.
It’s in this light
that Imasuen wants his film viewed, as it spotlights a great patrimony that is
at the core of Nigeria’s existence. When the film opens in worldwide cinemas in
October, Imasuen hopes that Invasion 1897
would help restore the glory of the Edo people and the antiquity value of such
structures as the Enogie of Obazagbon’s
palace. As a site that has survived for almost 200 years and now captured in an
epic film of Invasion 1897 stature,
the Enogie’s palace would naturally
generate interest from the public with a view to experiencing and appreciating
it as a historical marvel that it is and also for its artistic significance as
encapsulated in the film.
In this light, Invasion 1897 is history couched in high
art, and the 198-year old Enogie
Obazagbon’s palace is a fitting place for history and art to collide for the re-enactment
of a once flourishing, glorious and proud kingdom!
This is great I grew up in the palace as a kid. It was so big in those days wow good write-up for my village
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